Between Gilimanuk and Pemuteran, the reality is, however, that it could be drawn between Medewi and Seririt, encompassing almost all the west (and 10 per cent of Bali). The reason it’s not is that only the most north-westerly fringe is open to visitors. And that’s because this is what an actually ‘pristine’ Bali looks like. Once home to the Balinese tiger (sadly the last was shot in 1937) it’s now mostly remarkable for the birds. It’s very much a case of going hard or home when it comes to the trails offered, get a permit and guide (paid per hour) at the Park’s HQ, two miles south of Gilimanuk, then select one of the long routes – they’re far better than the shorter options.